by Carolyn Bauer, Assistant Curator
Shelburne
Museum's current exhibition Natural Beauties: Jewelry from Art Nouveau to Now features show-stopping fine jewelry. Visitors
to the exhibition stop in their tracks as they are taken aback by the abundance
and artistry of beautiful gems and jewels in the gallery. Perhaps no one piece
of jewelry is the most to blame for causing these pauses than the Art
Nouveau Enamel, Diamond and Amethyst Pendent.
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Rene
Lalique, Enamel, Diamond and
Amethyst Pendent, ca. 1895. Enamel,
diamond, amethyst, and 18k yellow gold,
4 1/2 x 2 1/2 in. Private Collection,
courtesy of Simon Teakle Fine Jewelry.
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Created
by the famous French jeweler René Lalique (1860-1945), the Enamel, Diamond and Amethyst Pendent is an enamel necklace encrusted with an array
of precious stones, such as: rose-cut diamonds, cabochon citrines, garnets,
periodots, tourmalines, and amethysts. Framed by gems in a gold setting,
the open-work enamel scene depicts the profile of a woman walking in the woods
accompanied by a dog. The figure of the famed French actress Sarah Bernhardt
(1844-1923). In this work of art she is rendered as Melissande, a Countess of Tripolia, a character she
played in the 1895 stage production La Princesse
Lointaine, a play written by the acclaimed playwright Edmond Rostand, a fond
friend of Bernhardt.
Bernhardt,
a living legend and celebrated beauty during the late nineteenth and early
twentieth centuries, was a muse for the world's leading artists, designers, and
fashion labels. Today, the actress is best remembered as the face of the
aesthetic Art Nouveau movement through artist Alphonse Mucha’s popular
advertising posters.
Among Bernhardt’s
many talents, she also had an eye for fine jewelry. In addition to her own interests in
collecting jewelry she also exerted a great deal of influence over its creation
during a time when jewelry was rising towards the status of fine art. As she was building her jewelry collection,
Lalique’s dramatic designs caught her attention. Lalique,
who was also beginning to make a name for himself in the arts through his technically
innovative and artistic jewelry, went from being an admirer of Bernhardt to being
her friend.
It was their
friendship that assisted in Lalique’s invitations to create elaborate costume
jewelry for Bernhardt to wear on the stage.
In 1894 he was commissioned to design her crown for the play Theodora, and it has been suggested that
Lalique may have also designed the jewelry and crown worn by Bernhardt for
La Princesse
Lointaine.
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Rene
Lalique, Jeweled copy of La Princesse Lointaine, ca. 1895. Leather, Gold, Diamond, Citrine, Garnet, Peridot, Tourmaline, Cabochon,
Amethyst. Private Collection, courtesy of
Simon Teakle Fine Jewelry.
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In celebration of Bernhardt’s
starring role as Melissandre, Princess of Tripoli, Edmond Rostand presented her
with a copy of the script. Bound in light beige leather with inlaid precious
stones, the text is a testimony to their friendship and admiration for each
other. On the script's cover is a lily, a reference to the crown she wore in
the performance, which is composed of diamonds and citrines. Rostand also
included Bernhardt's initials, her motto "Quand Meme" ("in spite
of"), and a handwritten dedication to her in the book.
Exhibited side by
side, the stunning Lalique necklace and play script not only enchants visitors with
their exceptional beauty, but also give a glimpse into the private lives of
these exceptional artists and memorialize their lasting influence in the
arts.
Both
of these must-see works of art will continue to be on display at the Shelburne
Museum in Natural
Beauties: From Art Nouveau to Now until March 8, 2015.
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Carolyn Bauer is the Assistant Curator at Shelburne Museum. Her
interests include, but are not limited to: mid-twentieth century modern
art and culture, American decorative arts, feminist art historical
writings, and contemporary art. She is obsessed with the lives and artworks of
Helen Frankenthaler and Joan Mitchell; and enjoys cheering on her
home state’s Green Bay Packers and exploring Vermont with her dog, Greta.